The Guardian Life Guide to Yosemite

Two climbing teams were scaling El Captain the day we arrived. Or at least, I was told they were. I couldn’t see anyone at all with the naked eye. We were standing underneath the seemingly glass-smooth granite, 900-metre monolith. The scale is unimaginable.

El Captian in Yosemite Valley is the spiritual home of big wall climbing. For merely world-class climbers, it can take up to a week to climb from the valley floor to the top. Superhuman climbers such as Dean Potter, Sean Leary, and Tommy Caldwell can do it in less time than it takes to watch a movie. Alex Honnold climbed it without a rope.

Not the photos, not the films, not the words, and not even the poetry written about Yosemite Valley—about El Capitan, Half Dome, and Yosemite Falls—can prepare you for the view as you crest the hill and see it before you.

READ ALSO: Watch “Yosemite”By Travis Scott Featuring Nav And Gunna

It’s been called one of the most beautiful sights in the world, and I wouldn’t, couldn’t argue. 

But with fame and beauty come crowds. In the summer, the locals call Yosemite Valley ‘Disneyland’. Our Guardian Life guide shows Yosemite in the slower seasons, exploring the trails that leave the crowds behind, the parts of this 1,100-square-mile park where the locals go.

With a little planning, you don’t need to travel far in Yosemite, in any direction, to find a true wilderness, particularly backpacking on the longer trails. Away from the roads and visitors’ centres, you’ll find abundant wildlife – bears, golden eagles and mountain lions are alpha predators here.

Yosemite valley

Part of how Yosemite looks like

Let’s start with the valley. This is the one in the photos. The one with El Capitan looming, with Half Dome dominating almost every view. It’s the place to start a visit to Yosemite. 

The Yosemite Museum and Valley Wilderness Center, along with the Valley Visitor Center, offer excellent context for the natural and human history of the region. In the summer, it’s stiflingly busy, so aim for spring and late autumn, or winter for quieter times. Early in the morning or as late as you can in the evening are spectacular times to be there too. As the red sun sets, turning the granite fiery, many of the cars will have disappeared.  

There are ten walks manageable in a day with trailheads in the valley. The harder the hike, the less likely you are to see people. Spring is the best time to see the waterfalls when the rivers are at their fullest. Snow Creek is one of the quietest trails, and Half Dome is technical with cables to assist with very steep climbs. A permit is required.

Beyond the valley

Yosemite’s mountain view

Mariposa Grove

Mariposa Grove of Giant Sequoias has more than 500 of the world’s biggest trees, and it was among these behemoths the idea of national parks grew into existence. The seven-mile Mariposa Grove Trail is the best way to see them. In winter, there are few better places for cross-country skiing and snowshoeing.    

Tuolumne Meadows and Tioga Road

Wide-open subalpine meadows against the backdrop of rounded granite domes characterise this more peaceful part of the park. Lakes, including Tenaya and Siesta, offer opportunities for paddling and SUPing. This area also provides some excellent campgrounds. The Tioga Road is only open between late May and October or November. It can be accessed by cross-country skis, usually from the Snow Creek trailhead in Yosemite Valley.

Yosemite fact box

Size: 1,100 square miles. 750 miles of trails.

When to go: Yosemite can be visited year-round, but be aware of road closures when there’s snow. Backpacking is very limited in winter, and travel is by ski and snowshoe. Snow can linger until May. The rivers are very high. Summer and fall are the best options for backpacking.

Permits: Wilderness permits are required for overnight stays in the Yosemite Wilderness (only one per trip). They are free but are issued to a limited number of people. It is worth reserving them ($5 per confirmed reservation plus $5 per person). See nps.gov/yose/index.htm for full information.

Bear activity: Dangers from bears are very uncommon, mainly due to precautions taken by visitors and backpackers, in particular, the proper use of bear-resistant food containers required by federal regulations. They can be rented at any staffed wilderness permit station.

Safety: The weather is very changeable, and lightning must be avoided. All water must be treated, as Giardia is a risk. Some ticks carry Lyme disease and relapsing fever.

Where to stay: The best place near the park is the Yosemite Bug Rustic Mountain Resort. It has a series of cabins and a cosy, excellent restaurant.

A young man observing nature of Yosemite