TRAVELOGUE: Memories of a weekend at Ikogosi Warm Spring Resort

Ikogosi Warm Springs, a rare and unparalleled gift of nature, has always held a special place in my imagination. I anticipated a visit from the moment I first heard of it during my undergraduate days.

The idea of witnessing warm-water and cold-water springs flowing side by side, yet never mixing, before merging at a confluence, has always intrigued me.

More than a decade later, visiting Ikogosi Warm Springs seemed like a distant dream, mainly due to my fear of road trips in Nigeria. However, I was determined to conquer this fear and experience the beauty of the springs firsthand. Don’t blame me just yet; the insecurity on Nigerian highways dampened that resolve, but recently, I changed my mind when an opportunity to visit was granted.

The all new ikogosi resort

I visited Ikogosi at the invitation of Glocient Hospitality Limited (a subsidiary of Cavista Holdings), which manages Ikogosi Warm Springs Resort, where the spring is located.

As a build-up to my trip, I did all the research, from travel time to the route and details of the spring nestled in an enchanting town in Ekiti State. I called my ‘Ekiti friends’ to ask what it was like in their state and to get every piece of information worth knowing. I got my answers and then proceeded to psych myself up.

The new Ikogosi resort

Travelling by road in Nigeria can be an adventure, especially if you’re prepared for the journey. I always opt for the window seat to take in the changing landscapes, even when flying. The road trip from Lagos to Ibadan was bustling with activity. But, as we neared Osun, where I finally got to taste Dodo Ikire and, eventually, Ekiti, it was a serene, picturesque view. It was just a preview of the tranquillity I would experience during my weekend stay at the resort.

The writer strikes a pose in front of Ikogosi signage alternative

I soon discovered that Ekiti State is a haven of tranquillity and natural beauty(picturesque landscapes, the rocks and hills that greet visitors).

It is a landlocked state, and its residents proudly proclaim it to be one of the most peaceful in the southwest.

The main gate of the old deplorable Ikogosi resort

Legend of Ikogosi Warm Spring

I gathered from my interactions with Ayo Ademuluwa, Cavista’s Community Engagement Manager, that Ikogosi town and the warm spring have a rich yet checkered history. Legend has it that Ikogosi Warm Spring was discovered by a local hunter, Ọ̀gánungánun, centuries ago during his hunting expedition.

During his hunt, he heard a noise from the spring and had to stop at the spring. He later discovered that the water was hotter in a pristine environment than in similar streams.

With mixed fear and joy, the hunter headed to the Oba’s palace to reveal the fantastic miracle he had just discovered.

The Oba sent a traditional chief to the scene to verify the story. It was eventually confirmed to be true. The hot spring became a place of worship for local deities.

He soon appointed a chief as the spiritual leader of the “Awo” (the traditional name for the warm spring). Similarly, the neighbouring cold springs met at a single point in the exact location and were called “Awele.”

Fast forward to 1952. Southern Baptist missionary Reverend John S. McGee, from his mission base in nearby Igede town in Ekiti, visited the warm and cold springs. He was initially advised not to go to the source of these two springs as he had heard from locals that to do so would bring about the death of the supernatural forces responsible for these strange and highly unusual flows.

Despite these “warnings,” Reverend McGee went through the bush/forest and up the hill to the two adjacent springs. It marked the beginning of a complete transformation of the warm springs and led to the birth of a youth camp, which would later become the Ikogosi Warm Spring Resort.

However, despite modernisation, the facility managers have maintained the original structure and ambience of the warm springs with some necessary facelights without altering the original plan.

From moribund facilities to world-class standard

McGee’s subsequent concise written narration indicates that upon his initial observation of the property, he recognised its potential for noble purposes.

Subsequently, the Baptist Convention acquired the land to establish a Youth Camp, which saw regular visits from Baptist youth, adults, missionaries, and vacationers.

By 22 December 1973, the government inaugurated a guest house named Western Villa. Reverend McGee and his family resided in and oversaw the camp until January 1974, when the government assumed management of the swimming pool area.

Consequently, the McGees relocated to their Baptist Mission residence in Igede, where they continued to manage the facilities (excluding the pool) until they retired from Nigeria in July 1977.

Poolside of the old deplorable Ikogosi resort

After Reverend McGee left Ikogòsì Warm Springs, the need to appoint a suitable manager for the Resort arose. The once carefully tended lawns and surroundings quickly became overgrown. It was an eyesore. Describing the derelict condition of the resort upon taking over, the General Manager of Glocient Hospitality, Lanre Balogun, said, “You couldn’t stay here for one hour. This place here was like a place where bats converged. There was no roof. Some other buildings’ roofs were falling off. It was dark.

The zoo of the old deplorable Ikogosi resort

The old Oǹdó State government (Ekiti was a constituent) established a zoological park next to the poolside to boost tourism. The park housed various animals, including snakes, baboons, hedgehogs, and lions.

Unfortunately, during the military regime of Governor Abiodun Olukoya in the early 1990s, a careless incident led to the lions attacking and devouring one of their keepers.

The governor immediately ordered that they be shot – even as they were still feeding on the carcass of the attendant. That led to the end of the zoo to date.

The zoo of the old deplorable Ikogosi resort

During the second republic, the federal government’s ambitious construction of the 32-unit, well-furnished lodging area signalled a significant development.

Furthermore, under the leadership of Niyi Adebayo, the first civilian governor of Èkìtì State, 14 unique rooms and suites were constructed following the Western Villa, and nine-room staff quarters, all exquisitely furnished!

The new Ikogosi resort

The Ikogosi Warm Springs Resort experienced unprecedented growth and recognition during Governor Kayode Fayemi’s first administrative tenure but faced a setback during the successive government’s term, leading to the unfortunate decay of facilities and a mass exodus of workers.

As the Fayemi administration neared the end of its second term in 2022, Glocient Hospitality Limited was awarded a 15-year concession for the resort’s management.

Today, the resort boasts about 91 exquisite rooms and suites in five distinctive options, offering luxury and comfort to patrons.

The all new ikogosi resort

Ikogosi, tourist haven

Thanks to the resort’s presence in Ikogosi town, the once sleepy community is now a tourist haven featuring numerous side attractions like spring tours, hill biking, hiking trails and camping.

It is also bustling with commercial activities.

The regent of the Ikogosi community, Princess Omobola Adepoju, said about 75 or 80 per cent of the youths are resort employees.

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Mr Balogun explained their approach, saying the once moribund facility witnessed a facelift in less than eight months.

“If Ikogosi Warm and Cold Spring Resort was dead before, it is now bustling with life. The rooms are tastefully furnished to international standards. The environment has the ambience of a resort, with bicycles and electric cars to move around the resort.’’

The writer strikes a pose in front of Ikogosi signage alternative lead image